Fireplace Won’t Stay Lit – Common Causes and Solutions

You’ve got the logs stacked perfectly, the kindling’s catching nicely, and then… it dies. Again. There’s nothing quite as frustrating as a fireplace that refuses to stay lit, especially when those Kansas City winter nights drop into the teens and you’re counting on that cozy warmth.

Here’s the thing: a fireplace that won’t stay lit is usually telling you something specific is wrong. It’s not being temperamental or picky. There’s a reason, and once you understand what’s happening, the fix is often more straightforward than you’d think.

The Draft Problem (And Why It Matters More Than You Think)

Most fireplace issues come down to airflow. Your fire needs three things: fuel, heat, and oxygen. When it keeps dying out, you’re almost always looking at an oxygen problem.

The draft in your chimney is basically a conveyor belt of air. Cold air comes in at the bottom, gets heated by the fire, and rises up the flue, pulling fresh air in behind it. When that system breaks down, your fire suffocates. Simple as that.

In Kansas City, we see draft problems spike during those weird temperature swings we get in late fall and early spring. Your house is warm inside, but it’s not that cold outside yet. The temperature difference isn’t enough to create strong draft, so the fire struggles. You might notice it lights fine in January when it’s 15 degrees out, but acts finicky in October when it’s 55.

Cold Chimney Syndrome

If you’re trying to light your first fire of the season or it’s been a few days since you last used the fireplace, you might have a column of cold, dense air sitting in your chimney. That cold air is heavy and doesn’t want to move.

Try this: before you light your main fire, roll up a couple pages of newspaper, light them, and hold them up near the damper for about 30-60 seconds. You’re warming up that column of air and priming the draft. Once you feel the heat starting to pull upward instead of blowing back at you, you’re good to go.

It sounds almost too simple, but this one trick solves probably a third of the “won’t stay lit” calls we get.

Your Damper Isn’t Actually Open (Or Open Enough)

Look, we’ve all done it. You think the damper is open, but it’s only partially open or worse, completely closed. The smoke and heat have nowhere to go, and the fire dies from lack of oxygen.

Here’s what most homeowners don’t realize: some dampers get stuck partially open over time. Rust, debris, or a warped damper plate means you think you’re opening it all the way, but you’re only getting it halfway. Reach up there with a flashlight (when there’s no fire, obviously) and actually look. You should see clear space up into the flue when it’s fully open.

Negative Pressure in Your House

Modern homes are built tighter than they used to be, which is great for your heating bill but not always great for your fireplace. If you’re running your kitchen exhaust fan, a bathroom fan, or your dryer while trying to use the fireplace, you might be creating negative pressure. Those fans are pulling air out of your house, and sometimes the easiest place for replacement air to come in is… down your chimney.

Try turning off exhaust fans when you’re using the fireplace. Or crack a window in the room with the fireplace about an inch. That gives your fire a source of makeup air that doesn’t involve reversing your draft.

This issue has gotten more common as homes have gotten more energy efficient. We see it a lot in newer construction in Overland Park and Lenexa.

The Firewood You’re Using Is Working Against You

Wet or green wood doesn’t burn well. Period. It creates more smoke, less heat, and that smoke cools down your flue, which weakens your draft, which makes everything worse.

Firewood needs to be seasoned for at least six months, ideally a year. When you knock two pieces together, they should sound hollow and sharp, not dull and thuddy. The ends should have cracks radiating out from the center. And if you can still smell that fresh-cut wood smell strongly, it’s too green.

With our humid KC summers, wood that isn’t stored properly can actually absorb moisture even after it’s been seasoned. Keep it covered and off the ground. Don’t stack it against your house where it stays damp.

Chimney Blockages You Can’t See

Birds love chimneys. So do squirrels, raccoons, and a whole host of other critters looking for a cozy spot. A nest in your chimney doesn’t have to completely block it to cause problems. Even a partial blockage restricts airflow enough that your fire can’t get the draft it needs.

Creosote buildup does the same thing. That black, tar-like substance that accumulates on your chimney walls gradually narrows the flue. Most people don’t think about it until it’s a serious problem, but even moderate buildup can restrict your draft enough to cause lighting issues.

You should be getting your chimney inspected and cleaned annually anyway. If it’s been more than a year, that’s probably your problem right there.

Your Chimney Is Too Short (Or Too Tall)

This one’s less common but worth mentioning. Chimneys need to be a certain height relative to your roofline to draft properly. If someone added a room addition or your neighbor built a two-story house that creates wind patterns around your chimney, you might have developed a draft problem that didn’t exist before.

Too tall can be an issue too, believe it or not. An excessively tall chimney can cool the exhaust gases too much before they exit, causing downdrafts.

The Grate Position Makes a Difference

If your grate is too far back in the firebox or too far forward, it affects how air moves around the fire. Too far back and the smoke has trouble finding the flue opening. Too far forward and you get smoke spillage into the room.

Generally, your fire should be positioned toward the back of the firebox, but not pressed against the back wall. There should be a few inches of space. Every fireplace is a little different, so experiment a bit to find the sweet spot.

When to Call Someone

If you’ve tried the basic troubleshooting and your fireplace still won’t stay lit, it’s time to bring in a professional. Could be a damaged damper, a serious blockage, or a structural issue with the chimney itself. These aren’t DIY projects.

We service fireplaces and chimneys throughout the Kansas City metro, from Liberty to Lee’s Summit and everywhere in between. Sometimes what seems like a mystery problem has a straightforward fix once you know what you’re looking at. Give us a call and we’ll figure out what’s going on with your fireplace.